Fish tacos

• 1.25 lbfirm white fish · cod, haddock or tilapia
• 1 tbspavocado oil
• 1 tspground cumin
• 1 tspsmoked paprika
• 1/2 tspchili powder
• 2limes · one juiced for the fish, one for the sauce and wedges
• 3 cupsgreen cabbage · shredded
• 1/2 cupplain Greek yogurt
• 1small bunch cilantro · chopped
• 8corn tortillas · warmed
• 1avocado · sliced, to serve

Methode

1. 1

   Choose a firm white fish

   Cod, haddock, tilapia or mahi-mahi hold together in the pan and flake into clean pieces. Delicate fish like sole falls apart before it leaves the pan. Buy fillets of even thickness so they cook at the same rate.

2. 2

   Pat the fish bone-dry before seasoning

   Surface water is the enemy of a sear. Blot the fillets with paper, then season with the cumin, paprika, chili and salt. Dry, seasoned fish hits a hot pan and browns; wet fish steams grey and sheds its coating.

3. 3

   Sear hard, flip once

   A hot pan with a thin film of oil, three to four minutes on the first side without touching it, then one flip. Fish tells you when it is ready to turn by releasing from the pan. Poking and flipping repeatedly is how fillets break apart.

4. 4

   The slaw is a component, not a garnish

   Shredded cabbage tossed with lime juice and a pinch of salt gives the taco its crunch and acidity, which is what stops it feeling heavy. Dress it ten minutes ahead so it softens just slightly but keeps its bite. This does more work than any sauce.

5. 5

   Yogurt-lime sauce instead of mayo crema

   Whisk Greek yogurt with lime juice, a little zest and salt for a tangy, protein-rich drizzle that is lighter than a mayo-based crema but just as creamy. Thin it with a splash of water to a drizzle consistency.

6. 6

   Warm and char the tortillas

   Hold corn tortillas over a flame or in a dry pan until they blister and smell toasty. Warm tortillas fold without cracking and taste of corn rather than paste. Double them up if they are thin so the taco holds together.

7. 7

   Build to eat immediately

   Tortilla, slaw, a piece of fish, a spoon of yogurt sauce, avocado and a squeeze of lime. Assemble at the table so nothing goes soggy. Fish tacos are a first-few-minutes food, not a make-ahead plate.